Here the reserved nose is ripe yet cool with its layered combination of both red and dark berry fruit aromas that are also quite spicy. There is a bit less density to the middle weight flavors that compensate by being sleeker and more well-delineated on the beautifully textured, dusty, powerful and very serious finale. This is unapologetically built-to-age and a wine that's going to need at least a decade first.
(BH Issue: 78)
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