The 2004 Tinto (Quinta Vale D Maria) is one of our reevaluations. Like most of its 2004 Douro siblings, it was last seen in late 2006 (published in 2007). Also like its siblings, it is aging beautifully, better than anticipated. The tannins still have some pop, but this is certainly fun to drink today. Unlike the Loivos in this report, though, the fruit here has more nuance and complexity. It is not as muted. The styles are otherwise mostly the same, showing good mid-palate finesse and a fair share of power, but this is more expressive. That said, while it is holding beautifully, I do wonder if the tannins are eventually going to take over and subsume the fruit as this continues to age. In structure, this has no problem continuing to age, but the fruit certainly shows in a mature fashion with some slate and stones, while the tannins emerge with aeration. I don't think you'll have serious problems, assuming you appreciate older wines, continuing to hold this, perhaps even longer than noted. But I would prefer to drink it now and in the near future for safety. I'm not sure it will get much better. I'm pretty sure it will drink great now. We'll see what it looks like in 2030 when we get there.
(WA 23rd Mar 2023)
