The 2011 Vinha do Rio (Quinta Vale d. Maria), the latest iteration in this new special parcel bottling (its name translates as River Vines, more or less) is an old vines (85 years) field blend aged in new French oak for 21 months. If the CV is probably the biggest wine here, this has by far the most pungent smell. That’s not necessarily a pejorative, but on my first swirls, I might’ve said “Port.” It seems surprisingly restrained otherwise, relatively well integrated in tannins, dense and not overly lively. It has a certain, stolid feel to it at times. Yet, this grew on me with aeration and showed more nicely the next day – although hardly changed at first. It took a long, long time to wake up, always seeming a bit stolid. When it did finally show some life, the alcohol was burbling in the background, but not overly intrusive. It certainly seems to be the most unusual of the offerings here. It grew on me, but I suspect it will be the most divisive wine in the group. It will be more interesting with this than most to see what happens to it in the cellar. There were just 1,900 bottles produced, plus some large format bottles. I’m advised that a mere 24 bottles will be sent to the USA in late 2013. Drink 2016-2031.
Many of the big reds were just bottled at the end of June or July, 2013, then seen in early Fall in the USA, so take it as a given that they are unevolved and need some time to show their stuff. Most of them should be in retail circulation in the USA in early 2014, shortly after this article appears. They tend to be in small supply. The theme here is many labels and brands, but not much quantity for each one. So, act quickly when they get here if you’re interested. If they have a flaw, it is primarily that they are as a group on the pricey side. You and your wallet will have to deal with that part. This issue features three small-production specialty wines illustrating different parts of the Quinta’s terroir. Since two of the three are relatively new, I asked van Zeller what he was attempting to demonstrate. I got a very long answer – but an interesting and worthwhile one. So, I’ll let him tell it, with some necessary condensation for space. “We have very many factors that influence each part and each parcel of vineyards in the Douro: altitude, sun exposure, steepness of the soil, rockiness of the soil, density of vines, etc., all multiplied (especially in the vineyards planted before 1975) by an extraordinary different number of grape varieties. ? Vinha da Francisca and Vinha do Rio (are) specific parcels that show a very special character. In reality CV was the first wine we produced under this theory. It is the only vineyard we have facing north (at the time I had not ? fully developed (the idea) to call it Quinta Vale D. Maria Vinha do something - CV is a great name anyway). ? In the case of Vinha da Francisca and Vinha do Rio I wanted to show two different and somehow extreme parts of our terroirs (CV being already established on its own): (a) - the younger vines of the quinta , showing from now on, not only the development of the age of these vines, vintage after vintage, but being also the symbol of the future; (b) - the oldest vines of the quinta , showing the maturity and "wisdom" (have I any?) of the family and Vale D. Maria?the full tradition of the field blends in the Douro.” While Francisca has never been part of the regular Vale d. Maria blend, note that the Rio parcel has been traditionally. When I asked how the separate blending would affect the flagship Estate wine, Vale d. Maria Tinto, van Zeller said: “A part of Vinha do Rio will always be part of Quinta Vale D. Maria Douro Red?Rio has a potential to produce some 2.000 to 3.000 bottles but we have only been bottling as Rio between 900 and 1.900 bottles.”
(WA 30th Dec 2013)
