The 2011 CV is the latest iteration of Cristiano van Zeller’s small production, old vines (85 years) field blend. It was 50-50 fermented in tank and oak and then aged for 21 months in a mixture of new (65%) and one and two year old (35%) French oak barriques. It is listed at 15.5% alcohol. It has surprisingly well integrated tannins this year – that is relatively speaking – together with a rather graceful mid-palate. It still finishes with a somewhat astringent pop. The oak is the biggest bugaboo. It is too obvious at the moment. Yet, it has a sunny feel to it, too. The main concern will be the alcohol level, but this seemed to handle it perfectly on Day 1 and quite well on Day 2. It will be something to watch, but so far, so good. The mid-palate is beautifully constructed, which is a theme in this year’s releases and the vintage in general, while the wine still shows admirable concentration. Thick and concentrated don’t have to be the same thing. This has some elegance. This really needs a couple of years – at least – to settle down, but it seems to be a big time wine in the vintage, finely crafted for all of its size. The Vale d. Maria probably offers more subtlety, but this is no clumsy fool. There were just 6,400 bottles produced, together with some large format bottles. Drink 2016-2031.
(WA 30th Dec 2013)
