The 2007 BRANCO VZ VAN ZELLERS comes in at just 12.5%. It is well marked by oak, otherwise rather sunny and easygoing with a mid-weight mid-palate. There is some good acidity that cuts through the oak at times, but the vanilla flavors always tend to predominate. If you’re not an oak-a-phobe, there is a lot here to like at a reasonable price. Drink now-2010. There were 250 cases produced.
Cristiano Van Zeller, one of the Douro’s most prominent and important figures and the former head of Noval, has a growing empire that includes brands like CV, Vale D. Maria, Van Zellers and Casa de Casal Loivos. His team recently took over winemaking responsibilities for Quinta de Roriz as well, although his cousin is the owner there. It is separately listed. It is not easy unraveling the corporate connections between the various projects and brands. It is a long story. On some labels, the front now indicates Cristiano Van Zeller, while on others, only the brand is noted. The commonality between them is the inclusion of “Lemos & Van Zeller” on the back, with which name most of the wines have traditionally been associated, so the wines have been grouped here together under that name for consistency’s sake. The 2006s here are collectively among the best performances in the vintage. Few wineries did so well, so consistently producing wines with some depth and structure. These wines as a group are surprisingly fine in this vintage.
(WA 22nd Dec 2008)
