The 2009 BRANCO “VZ” (VAN ZELLERS) is notable for its oak overlay, and is otherwise rather light and elegant, gentle and graceful. It shows some considerable evidence that the oaky notes will recede with a little more time, and I loved how the bright, gentle fruit took over, and the gripping finish lingering. The mid-palate is rather delicate. It certainly has a lot to offer if you like its style. Still, while I do sometimes wonder how well oak works in Douro whites, this seems beautifully balanced. Until proven wrong, I’d drink these on the younger side, however long they theoretically hold.
(WA 23rd Dec 2010)
